Tag Archives: colonialism

|Secada·and·Neguin|

Last week I was reminded of why I love working in an Arts Collective: because of the amazing and interesting people that come in and out of our doors.  They follow their own paths, dance to their own music (No really.  They make and dance to their own songs.) and encourage me, whether or not they’re aware of it, to find my own beat.

I met Secada through my studiomate who runs her own clothing company Sefirah Fierce Designs.  Her clothes are, well…fierce. Likewise, no ordinary mortal could be called upon to showcase them.  Enter Amy Secada (like Cicada); dancer, model, and yoga instructor.  From what I gathered, Amy has lived a life few ever imagine.

Watch this.

She modeled as a teenager, traveling the world, she found dance in the clubs and hasn’t ever stopped moving.  She left New York City cause the laws passed under Giuliani began to prohibit the way she expressed herself.  “They give you a $300 ticket for having a boombox and dancing in the streets.”  Goodbye US, hello Brazil.  She now lives in South America with the equally crushable world-class capoiera and B-boy dancer, Neguin. They are a power couple if I’ve ever seen one.

To me Secada and Neguin represent the full potential contained within the human body.  They’ve spent their time practicing the art of movement.  They even dance together.  It’s beautiful to watch.  I’ve never had a partner who shared the same passion as me.  I can imagine their relationship being beautifully connected.  Seeing is believing.

In 2004 Secada started the Kinetic Junglist Movement, which:

….translates ancestral and urban movement into a contemporary reflection of tribal renaissance. KJM has paved the way for experimental urban expression by transcending the stage into an alter of momentum and contemporary ritual. Through stunning multimedia effects, untamed musical scores, capoeira acrobatics, couture costume design and tribal body paint, KJM welcomes you to the mystical realm of the Junglist.

I feel as shy writing about her as I did being around her.  I am usually not really that timid, and in the right circumstances have been known to ham it up quite thoroughly, but Amy’s presence had me awestruck.  Girl crush.

Image of Inanna Top - solid color

Amy in one of Sefirah’s designs.

I don’t care what Jezebel has to say about this haircut, Secada makes it look good.  Besides I wouldn’t attribute it to whatever DJ they are claiming started the style.  I would give the creds to  artist Alex Gray, who sported the look in his early years.

Amy feels like a girl after my own heart, the kind of person I would have gotten into a lot of trouble with if we had met in our early twenties.  Her presence is arresting.  Maybe it’s cause I like her, but her eyes remind me of my own.  Large lids, almond shaped with a twist at each end. They even pop out slightly as mine do.  There is definitely something about her that screams superhero.  Her body is a dancers body, somehow solidly and powerfully present, but capable of making it into unthinkable positions.  I haven’t been able to shake the feeling of having to move my body since meeting her, even though I’ve been exhausted from churning out three of the six garments (Yes, folks. Confederate Articles is starting.  I’ve even worn a few of the garments around town.  The results have been interesting).  I’ve reignited my yoga practice and feel inspired to take up some kind of dance.  I love dancers.  They have so much energy for life.

Despite the B(ad)-Boy appearance, I found Neguin to be pretty mellow and exceptionally kind.  I base this off of only a couple of very limited interactions.  Shortly after meeting him he grabbed my arm saying, “Come closer.”  Secada, Neguin and I walked down the street arm in arm once, and skipped another time.  We went to a club called Temple on Thursday night, where I watched the two of them get down.  It was amazing to see.  Neguin and I chatted briefly that night.  I’ve had this theory for years that I could move to Brazil and do just fine, and Neguin confirmed this saying, “You’re already Brazilian.”  Yesss.  He also touched my arm, asking me if I was cold since I was standing outside with no jacket.  I haven’t washed that arm since (just kidding).

We chatted about the crossover between Capoeira and Breakdancing.  The cultural exchange between people of the African diaspora in post-colonial times fascinates me.  This feels like a deep connection.

Their dancing calls to the diaspora.  Secada is incredibly fluid.  Her arms seem to have flown to her all the way from the African continent at times.  Neguin moves in powerful, quick outbursts.  He started playing Capoeira when he was a young kid.  He explained to me that for some reason he was able to train with a group of more experienced artists, so he picked up a lot at a young age.  Neguin seemed able to go from laying flat on the ground to standing up in one imperceptible gesture.  I’m pretty sure I saw him do a back flip in the middle of a crowded intersection.

I have been fascinated by Capoiera for ages, without ever knowing why.  As wikipedia tells me:

In the 16th century Portugal had one of the biggest colonial empires of the world, but it lacked people to actually colonize it. In the Brazilian colony the Portuguese, like many European colonists, opted to use slavery to supply this shortage of workers. Colonists tried to enslave Brazilian natives in the beginning, but this quickly proved too difficult for many reasons, including the familiarity natives had with the land. The solution was importing slaves from Africa.

In its first century the main economic activity in the colony was the production and processing of sugarcane. Portuguese colonists used to create large sugarcane farms called engenhos, farms which extensively used enslaved workers. Slaves, living in inhumane and humiliating conditions, were forced to work hard and often suffered physical punishment for any small misbehaviour. Even though slaves outnumbered the Portuguese colonists, the lack of weapons, the colonial law, the disagreement between slaves coming from different African cultures and their complete lack of knowledge about the land and its surroundings would usually discourage the idea of a rebellion.

In this environment capoeira began to develop. More than a fighting style, it was created as a hope of survival, a tool with which an escaped slave, completely unequipped, could survive in the hostile, unknown land and face the hunt of the capitães-do-mato, colonial agents armed and mounted in charge of finding escapees.

Soon several groups of African slaves would gather and establish quilombos, primitive settlements in far and hard to reach places. After its humble start, some quilombos would develop, attracting more runaway slaves, Brazilian natives and even Europeans escaping the law or Catholic extremism. Sometimes a quilombo would become a real independent multi-ethnic state.Everyday life in a quilombo would offer freedom and the opportunity to rescue traditional cultures lost due to colonial oppression. In this kind of multi-ethnic community, constantly threatened by Portuguese colonial troops, capoeira evolved from a survival tool to a martial art focused on war.

The biggest of the quilombos, the Quilombo dos Palmares, consisted of many villages mostly of African slaves though they also consisted of other ethnicities and lasted for more than a century, resisting, often outnumbered, many colonial attacks. This quilombo resisted at least 24 small attacks and 18 great colonial invasions. Portuguese soldiers sometimes stated it took more than one dragoon to capture a quilombo warrior, since they would defend themselves with a strangely moving fighting technique. The governor from that province declared “it is harder to defeat a quilombo than the Dutch invaders.”

I’ve been asking myself about slavery in the US, and I wonder what differed so drastically that slaves in The States didn’t develop any art forms that referenced anger, self-defence, or fighting.    I’ve been told that the amount colonizers allowed native culture to remain in tact was highly dependent on which European nation was doing the colonizing.  Rumor has it that the Portuguese allowed their African imports to keep parts of their cultures because they believed that once slaves realized the differences between themselves, they would grow to hate each other, making them vulnerable to colonial influence.  This is not what happened.  Both Capoeira and Samba are evidence of the fusion between native and import cultures.

I perceive a total annihilation of native cultures the US.  A stamping out, perhaps similar to Rudy Giuliani’s boombox-less New York (if I had the time I would make the argument, using text from The Politics of Difference, that if indeed such laws were passed, there is probably some unconscious racism running just below the surface).

In the face of oppression, we can either fight or run.  Depending on what’s at stake, either option might be the right solution.  When do those of us challenged with United States citizenship stop running?  This option, perhaps, has been the automatic response for too long.  Are there things we can do to secretly prepare for battle in unexplored terrain?  How do we create our own quilombos (be them real or metaphorical)?

Neguin, somewhere beautiful.  Probably Brazil.

Looking badass.

My only regret in meeting them was that I wasn’t fully able to relax and let loose.  My work was calling me and I had to respond, which meant I couldn’t enjoy them or myself in any of the recreational activities I attempted when they were here.  Also, I can be painfully resistant to dancing because I think I look foolish.  Vanity.  Time to be a little less self-conscious about that and learn to enjoy what I have.  I hear they might be returning to San Francisco in August. I’ll make sure to tie my dancing shoes on tight if we happen to meet again.

Until then…

Love and Enjoy.

***Also watch this.***


Article·of·Inspiration |Renèe Cox|


Mama, I Thought Only Black People Were Bad (1995)

Meet the  artist, sculptor, photographer, videographer, and eroticist, Renèe Cox.

Renèe?  More like Renèe-ked.  She’s so sexciting.

But seriously, if there is one artist that makes me want to ditch the six items thing and walk around uncovered for the next year, it’s her.  I think I could get away with it as long as I stayed in the Castro.

Renee has made a career out of showcasing herself.  The evidence lies below in a body of work that is…well, her body.  If I am to believe the write up on her website, she is one of the most controversial black female artists working today.  Take Yo Mama’s Last Supper.  It’s her version of The Last Supper, by Leonardo Da Vinci, ‘cept all the apostles are black save Judas.  Oh, and she’s Jesus…and she’s naked.

Yo Mama’s Last Supper (1996)

While we’re talkin ’bout Yo Mama…

Young Yo Mama (1979)

Yo Mama at Home (1992)

Yo Mama (1993)

Yo Mama the Sequel (1996)

Yo Mamadonna and Child (1994)

Her tribute to Lil’ Sarah:

HOTT-EN-TOT (1994)

From some website:

In this futuristic reinterpretation of the Hottentot Venus, Renee Valerie Cox directly inserts her own body into the historical matrix of Western representations that configured black female sexuality.  In the photograph Cox’s body is transformed, recalling the Hottentot Venus, with the addition of protruding metallic breasts and an accompanying metal butt extension.  The white strings that delicately hold these metallic body parts in place with bow, seem to emphasize the artists’ complex and ambivalent relationships to representations of black female sexuality.  Cox wears the metallic appendages like a costume or disguise, but her own nude body is simultaneously revealed to the viewer.  She stands in profile emphasizing her bodily dimensions, hands akimbo, and stares directly at the viewer.

Liberty in the South Bronx  (1992)

These are awesome for many reasons, but especially cause it looks like she made them after she had had her first child (can you spot the scar?).  I heard she lifted the chains of oppression for two hours a day to get that post-baby body.

Do or Die (1992)

The Colonization of White People/The In Laws (1996)

David (1994)

Liberation of Aunt Jemima and Uncle Ben (1998)

Mama, I Thought Only Black People Were Bad (1995)

The Kiss

Click The Kiss.  Click The Kiss.  Click The Kiss.

Love and Enjoy.

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Harmonic·Article |Leaving the Past|

They told me I would never make it

I would never achieve it

Reality is nourishment

but people don’t believe it

I guess it’s hard to stomach the truth

like a bulimic

It’s a dirty game

and nobody is willing to clean it

But this is for the paraplegics

people dreamin’ of runnin’

Ladies married to men who don’t please ‘em

dreamin’ of cumin’

Verbally murderous like David Berkowitz

when I’m gunnin’

Some cowards on the Internet

didn’t think I would sell

scared to talk shit in person

cuz they stuck in a shell

and couldn’t understand the pain

of being stuck in a cell

Hell is not a place you go

if you not a Christian

It’s the failure

of your life’s greatest ambition

It’s a bad decision

to blindly follow any religion

I don’t see the difference

in between the raw and the wrong

Soldiers emptyin’ the clips

at little kids and they moms

are just like a desperate motherfucker

strapped to a bomb

Humanity is gone

smoked up in a gravity bong

by a democrat republican

Cheech and Chong

Immortal Technique

you never heard me preachin’ a song

I’m not controversial

I’m just speakin’ the facts

Put your hands in the air

like you got the heat to your back

and shake your body

like a baby born addicted to crack

And since life is a gamble

like the craps tables at Vegas

I freestyle my destiny

it’s not written in pages

I hate it when they tell us

how far we came to be

as if our peoples history

started with slavery

Painfully I discovered

the shit they kept a secret

this is the exodus

like the black Jews out of Egypt

I keep it reality based

wit the music I make

brought the truth to your face

with thestyle I run wit

Like the navy missile

that shot down flight 800

I’m like the Africans

who came here before Columbus

And from the 1500’s

until after tomorrow

I watch Latin America

get raped into sorrow

You see the Spaniards never left

después de Colon

and if you don’t believe me

you can click on Univision

I never seen so much racism

in all of my life

Every program and newscast

all of them white

It’s like apartheid

with 10 percent ruling the rest

that type of stress ‘ll make me put

the fucking tool to your chest

Step in my way nigga

I wouldn’t wanna be ya

I burn slow

like pissing drunk with gonorrhea

I’ll do a freak show in North Korea

burning the flag

while Jay Edgar Hoover politicians

dress up in drag

Try to confuse you

makin’ it hard to follow this:

capitalism and democracy

are not synonymous

You swallow propaganda

like a birth control pill

sellin’ your soul to the eye

on the back of the dollar bill

But that will never be me

cuz I am leavin’ the past

like an abused wife with the kids

leavin’ your ass

Like a drug addict clean and sober

leavin’ the stash

Unbreakable Technique

leavin’ the plane crash

I’m out with the black box

and I refuse to return

I spit reality

instead of what you usually learn

And I refuse to be concerned

with condescendng advice

Cuz I am the only motherfucker

that could change my life

Some people think I won’t make it

but I know that I will

Escape the emptiness

cuz that shit is slow and it kills

The flow and the skill

I made y’all believe that it last

You can make the future

but it starts with LEAVING THE PAST.

Next Harmonic·Article post.


Academic·Article |Stuart Hall|

A few weeks ago I posted a lecture by Dr. Joy DeGruy Leary who’s been researching the psychological effects  of slavery on present-day black families.  I’ve been watching videos by and about prominent scholars on YouTube for some time now.  I think it’s pretty amazing that anyone can watch lectures and speeches by some of the best scholars, free, in the comfort of their own homes.  It really takes education to an interesting place, especially cause you don’t have to write papers for anyone afterward.

In any case, I’d like to use these Academic Article posts to present videos featuring prominent black scholars – blackademics, if you will.  I’d also like to use them as a repository for cataloging academic conferences about slavery, black culture and fashion, which I get updates about occasionally through friends.

So for today I present a lecture by Stuart Hall, who has been the leading post-colonial, cultural studies scholar in the UK for quite some time.  It’s called Race: The Floating Signifier.

Also, here is a documentary on Frantz Fanon, a prominent Algerian psychiatrist and revolutionary who spent his life studying the colonization of the mind (the effects of colonialism on blacks’ psychology).  In 1952, when he was only 27, he independently published the book Black Skin, White Masks.  It was, under a different title, written as his doctoral thesis, but was rejected by the academy.  Frantz continues to inspire artists and free thinkers in many generes, from diverse cultural backgrounds.  Strong minds run in packs, so this post ends up being a get one, get another one special (GoGao).  Hall is a featured Fanon expert throughout.

Love and Enjoy!


Article·of·Style |Junya Wantanabe|

This was the only picture of Junya I could find on the web, I think that says something about him.  Once pattern-maker and then design protegè to Rei Kawakubo of Comme Des Garcons (who I featured in this post), Wantanabe now heads his own line under his own name.  It’s been said that Ms. Kawakubo never once praised Junya during their two decades of working together (I honestly don’t believe this, they’re friends).  Perhaps this is proof that tough love works wonders.  Junya is consistently one of my favorites during fashion week.

I initially learned about Junya, Comme de Garcons, and Rei Kawakubo after working through a fashion project based on DNA (I’ve referenced this before I think).  I decided to drape slinkys, in my mind the perfect physical representation of half a double helix, around a dressform, and then drape sheer knit fabric over that.  My design teacher immediately pegged me as “the conceptual one,” and recommended I consult the collections of Mr. Wantanabe and Ms. Kawakubo for future projects.

Junya’s Fall 2009 collection inspired me to create this creepy, digital image for a composition class.  We were exploring triangular configurations.  Can you count the number of triangles in this picture?

As you can see, religion and fashion are themes I’ve been tooling with for some time.  I also firmly believe that this collection is responsible for the popularization of all those puffy, quilted, black coats women have been wearing for the past few seasons.

Check out this video of the show, it’s as creepy as my picture.

I often read Style.com’s collection reviews to find out more about influences behind  a specific designer or collection.  I hate to say this, but I find fashion journalist Sarah Mower’s reviews incredibly unimaginative and surface level, at best.  Granted, not a whole lot of content analysis can be done in three paragraphs, but she’s really not pushing any boundaries here, even when the designers seem to be trying to say something important.

Take this snippet from Ms. Mower’s review of  Junya’s Spring 2008 collection, for example.

Using simple materials tethered to bands of utilitarian tape, Watanabe created shapes that wound asymmetrically here and there, baring the back or dipping off the shoulder. A man of few words, the only clue he gave afterward about his starting point was, “It all goes back to Africa.” In retrospect, you could see what he meant, but, as with so many collections these days, it’s not so much the conceptual origin that matters—only whether the designer transforms it into something a woman can imagine wearing. On that score, this collection delivered a rare sequence of delightful surprises.

There lies the real problem with most fashion commentary.  In an industry that changes at such a rapid pace, intense, didactic conversations that could interpret the implied significance of a garment or collection, would be both time-consuming, and would require a knowledge of both the background of the designer and the ideas that inspired him or her.  Fashion just doesn’t have time to be that self-reflective.

Instead of investigating, Ms. Mower dismissively admits to not having noticed the concept behind the collection, and reminds the reader that it’s not the ideas that matter, but weather or not the collection stirs woman’s desire to own the items on display.  In a sense, she’s right.  It still feels so wrong though, especially after this collection is met with commercial success and Junya continued to explore the “African” theme the following year, in his Spring 2009 collection.  Maybe he’s doing it cause it’s selling, maybe he has other reasons.  I’m sure the real answer is neither here nor there, but thinking about his choice to design two collections on the theme of Africa, in very different ways, is interesting.

Some swipes:

Spring 2008

A touch of Colonialism, eh?

This one’s pretty African if you ask me.

Spring 2009

I bet these headpieces were a pain to wear.

So sexy.  Jeans under everything.

Also, there is the awesomeness that is  Fall 2008.

The things that stand out about this collection are, the amazing headwraps/thought collectors, the ingeniously draped, knit garments, and the relationship of the garments to the human form beneath them.  I really like the fact that most of the articles in this collection aren’t tight-fitting or overly dependent on adhering to the rules of high tailoring.  Junya’s designs have the ability to transform both the wearer and the viewer.  They give our eyes room to find new ways of looking.  This excites me.

I’ve been trying to figure out how the garments I’ll create will honor, appreciate, enhance and complement my body, without objectifying it (will talk about this more in a post I’ve titled, Ass·ets).  I think the collection above addresses this challenge, and highlights the complex yet beautiful nature of the answer.  Also, I read somewhere that performers imitating slaves in the 17th century, way before modern blackface, used to wear masks made of black fabric.  This collection reminded me of that.

I quickly want share swipes from two more seasons, Spring 2010 and the most recent collection, Spring 2011.

Spring 2010

The genius of the collection was that, for all of the hip experimentation, it was fully tooled as pragmatic daywear—avant-garde, but completely utilitarian.

Best suit ever.

Slave babies wore oversize men’s shirts. I’m starting to swipe picture of women in men’s dress shirts consistently.  I remember something similar from Ralph Lauren.

Spring 2011

Less thematically relevant, but appealing silhouettes.

I think I’ve found my first favorite designer.

Love and Enjoy.


Article·of·Inspiration |Yinka Shonibare|

Meet Yinka.  The work of Yinka Shonibare was recommended to me by Matthew P. Shelton, an artist I met back in August of 2010.  Matthew is currently completing his MFA at VCU.  I hope art school is going, going…

Yinka’s art has become an influential visual resource for this project.  Born in London to an elite Nigerian family, Yinka claims to have known nothing of class privilege based on race till later in his life.  While attending art school and completing a project centered on Peristroika, one of Yinka’s professors “encouraged” him to explore what being African meant to him.  His response was groundbreaking.

The headless, raceless, fabric sculptures above are what came out of this exploration.  A self professed “poet of cloth” and rascal, Shonibare’s art deals with identity, class, and the culture confusion created by colonialism.  Take the batik fabric he used to make the sculptures above.  We all recognize this fabric as African, but in truth it has Indonesian origins.  Dutch and British colonials involved in the East India trade recreated textiles they found in Indonesia to try and sell back to Indonesians for a profit.  These poorly crafted imitations were rejected by Indonesians and eventually came to Africa where they were prized for being exotic.  In using these fabrics to represent African identity Shonibare most definitely brings racial and cultural authenticity into question.

Yinka has also explored the topic of dandyism to a great extent.  I’ll discuss that in a future entry mayhaps.

Watch this episode of  Art :21 | Transformation to find out more about his process and his work.  You won’t be disappointed.

Love and Enjoy.

Click here to find the next post in the Article·of·Inspiration series.


Pure·Confederate·Imagination

Willy Wonka gets Wacist.

 

As a child, I was a huge Roald Dahl fan.  My favorites books were Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Matilda, The Twitts, and Witches.  I always forget how dark Dahl‘s books are.  A  factory that kills bad children, witches that want to turn children into mice…to kill them, parents that hate children. I was so in love with his pint-sized heroes who fought the forces attempting to destroy childhood.  So, so dark, and so, so wonderful.  And so, so racist.  Actually, not really.  But kind of.

Remember the Oompah Loompahs? They were the tiny, over-tanned, white haired workers that made sure Wonka’s factory hummed with productivity. [Insert joke about Bob Barker here.] I’m sure you remember and love them as much as I do, but do you remember when they were Black (African pygmies actually)? Cause they were.  At some point, the publishers of C&CF wrote, and illustrated, the African Oompahs out of Dahl’s text and we’ve imagined them to be from Loompahland ever since.  Aside from being rescued from the evil Whangdoodle, by a semi-sadistic chocolatier, the Oompahs got cocoa beans in exchange for their labor, a sweet deal indeed.


On the one hand, changing the Oompah Loompahs’ race erases an important reference to the realities of colonialism, and that is bad.  It’s feels like denial.  Others would disagree with me, stating the books like C&CF reinforce master-slave dynamics, Wonka being the saintly, white slave owner who saves the savages from themselves.  On the other hand, the Oompahs’ costumes are really, really ugly.  I’m sure no real Oompah Loompah would be caught dead in one of those things.

Alas, no human or book is perfect.  And even though the story might have some problems, I still love it.  Especially when the bratty kids get what’s coming to them.  Pure Imagination, is a song from the 1971 film, Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory, and will forever be one of my favorites, mainly because I love candy.  Ask anyone, it’s true.  Maroon 5 did a cover of Pure Imagination at some point.  I’m still figuring out how I feel about that.  Enjoy.


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